French ingredient manufacturer Silab has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient designed for menopausal skin. The launch targets a specific biological process: ferritinophagy, which regulates the controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs.
Targeting iron handling in menopausal skin
Silab says a novel modeling study of menopausal skin showed a deficiency in ferritinophagy. According to the company, this deficiency reduces bioavailable iron and contributes to premature skin aging, a phenomenon it calls metallo-aging. UV exposure can intensify the process, Silab adds, because UV favors degradation of iron/ferritin complexes. That leads to a massive, uncontrolled release of iron and significant oxidative stress.
Metallomia is positioned to address these linked problems by relaunching ferritinophagy in menopausal skin. Silab says the ingredient facilitates iron provision and helps relaunch key epidermal functions. It also reports that, by reducing iron/ferritin complexes, the active limits oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV.
Taken together, Silab describes a two-sided iron problem. In the absence of adequate ferritinophagy, menopausal skin lacks bioavailable iron; after UV exposure, degraded iron/ferritin complexes can release iron in an uncontrolled way. Metallomia is presented as acting on both sides of that balance.
Reported clinical observations
According to Silab, the targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging. In Caucasian volunteers, skin was described as revitalized from 14 days, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days, the company says.
Silab also reports that when Caucasian volunteers applied the ingredient before UV exposure, it prevented lipid peroxidation. Within hours after UV exposure, the appearance of redness was limited, according to the company.
Marshmallow root and a traced supply chain
For Metallomia’s development, Silab examined the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company set up a traced supply chain with French partners. This supply was validated against criteria in the European Pharmacopoeia and through authentication by DNA barcoding.
To make use of the roots’ mucilage content, Silab developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides. The resulting ingredient is patented.
Formulation and compliance
Metallomia is recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is available in aqueous solution and is described as easy to formulate. Silab says the ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128. It also complies with international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan, according to the company.